Great Cumbrae Totally Explained

Everything about Great Cumbrae totally explained

Great Cumbrae (Scottish Gaelic, Cumaradh Mòr; also known as Cumbrae or the Isle of Cumbrae) is the larger of the two islands known as The Cumbraes in the lower Firth of Clyde in western Scotland. Home to the National Watersports Centre, the Cathedral of the Isles and the University Marine Biological Station, Millport, the holiday island has an 18-hole golf course which sweeps almost to the summit, and a round-island road much favoured for family cycle runs.

Geography

The island is 3.9 km long by 2 km wide, rising to a height of 127 metres above sea level at "The Glaidstane" - a large, naturally occurring rock perched on the highest summit on the Island. There is a triangulation pillar nearby, as well as a geographical indicator which annotates the breathtaking panoramic views. Sightlines pass over the upper Clyde estuary and onwards to Ben Lomond in the north, and over the larger islands of Bute and Arran then the Kintyre peninsular to the distant Paps of Jura to the west. Looking south, Ailsa Craig (commonly referred to as Paddy’s Milestone) is visible, around 40 miles distant beyond Little Cumbrae. Ailsa Craig roughly marks the halfway point to Northern Ireland, which itself may be glimpsed in extremely clear conditions. Millport, the island's only town, is spread around a large bay which constitutes the entire south coast of the island. The usual island population of 1,434 (2001 census) increases substantially during the summer tourist season due to the high proportion of second homes.
The land on the island is primarily owned by the farmers, with the other major land owner being the Millport Golf Club.
Flights across the Atlantic from Glasgow International Airport can provide a good view of the island.

Geology

The island is on the Great Cumbrae Fault line that runs Northeast to Southwest. Fault lines form some interesting rock formations which have become popular with tourists including Crocodile rock, Indian's Face, Lion's Rock and Queen Victoria's Face. Several have been enhanced with colourful paint.
Cumbrae's western coastline has fine examples of raised beaches. This occurs perhaps most notably in the area surrounding Bell Bay on the west coast - where the Islands highest waterfall, Horse Falls, plunges over the old sea cliffs.

History

The island has been inhabited since the end of the last ice age.
   It is claimed that the Viking king, Haakon, used the island as a base before the Battle of Largs (1263).
   Cumbrae has long been linked to Christianity in Scotland. At one time the island had many standing stones. The Aberdeen Breviary (printed in Edinburgh) of 1509 gives an account of two of the island's early female missionaries, Saints Beya and Maura.
   For many centuries the island was under shared ownership, with the Marquess of Bute in the west and the Earl of Glasgow in the east. In 1999 the final feudal landowner, Le Mans winner Johnny Dumfries, now Bute, of Mount Stuart House, put the island up for general sale, with first refusal given to his farmer tenants In the 20th century, with the growth of tourism Millport became a popular stop for Clyde steamers and families going 'Doon the Watter for the Fair' (Glasgow Fair holidays). Today most visitors are daytrippers, mostly due to the growth of foreign package holidays in the 1960s. It is still possible to experience a traditional day out on the PS Waverley which operates from both Glasgow and Ayr during the summer.

Tourism

During the summer, the population grows by several thousand every weekend. Hiring a bike and cycling around the island's 11-mile encircling coastal road is a popular activity for visitors, as the roads are quiet compared to the mainland. There are informal walks all over the island. Fintry Bay, around 3 miles from Millport on the west coast, has a small cafe.
   Millport Bay, with visitor moorings, is a popular destination for sailors in the summer. The National Watersports Centre at the ferry slip provides tuition in most boating disciplines, such as powerboating and kayaking, all year round. The most dived site on the Clyde is just south of the ferry slip – a Second World War Catalina flying boat.
   A curling pond near the top of the island hasn't been playable for several years.
   Other attractions include:

Cathedral of the Isles – William Butterfield, one of the great architects of the Gothic revival designed the cathedral church of the Diocese of Argyll and the Isles, within the Episcopal Church of Scotland (Anglican Communion). George Frederick Boyle, 6th Earl of Glasgow acted as the founder and benefactor. Construction finished in 1849 and the cathedral opened in 1851. Formal gardens and woodland surround the cathedral, the highest building on Great Cumbrae and one of the smallest cathedrals in Europe.
College of the Holy Spirit – attached to the Cathedral, this former seminary for ordination training is now a Retreat House and the Argyll Diocesan Conference Centre. It was the base for The Community of Celebration, or Fisherfolk, an international group of artists and musicians sharing a Benedictine lifestyle during the 1970s and 80s.
The Wedge – a private residence which has the smallest frontage in the UK – the width of a front door.
Museum of the Cumbraes occupies part of the Garrison, built originally for the captain of an anti-smuggling revenue cutter.
Marine Biology Station, Keppel Pier – has an aquarium of sea creatures from the Firth of Clyde, and a museum which tells the story of the sea and of the Clyde area. It has a hostel which provides accommodation for visiting parties of marine biology students from around the UK - primarily over the summer months.

Marine environment and wildlife

Cumbrae's marine climate can receive gale force winds from the Atlantic at any time of year - these westerly or south-westerly gales can be severe and destructive. However, whilst the west of the island might be in the throes of a 70mph gale, the sheltered east side facing Largs can seem like a duckpond.
Local wildlife, apart from Owls, Polecats, Rabbits, Common Kestrels and the occasional Golden Eagle and Sea Eagle includes a large seabird population - Fulmars, Cormorants, Oyster catchers and many more. Other marine life includes Seals, Basking Sharks and Dolphins.
The well respected University Marine Biological Station, Millport (UMBSM) is run by the Universities of Glasgow and London. Founded in 1885 by Sir John Murray and David Robertson, it's just outside the town and has an interesting curriculum and research programme which attracts UK and foreign students throughout the academic year. A Museum and Aquarium is open to visitors. The station took delivery (May 2003, in the presence of Princess Anne) of the Macduff-built, 22-metre "RV Aora" marine Research Vessel. UMBSM also functions as a Met Office Weather Station and Admiralty Tide Monitor.

Transport

A Caledonian MacBrayne car ferry connects the island with Largs, Ayrshire on the Scottish mainland.
A new ferry, MV Loch Shira, built at Ferguson Shipbuilders in Port Glasgow, entered service on the 2nd June 2007. There are concerns, due to the design being based on an inappropriate, crude and outdated vessel form factor, that conditions such as equinox tides and winds over 40mph will compound service reliability problems. However, the general layout and specification of the ferry has been met with resounding local approval. . Major alterations to Largs pier are necessary in order to provide an ideal berthing solution for the new boat - as of March 2007 these have not begun and this will mean that the new ferry is likely to have to sail to Fairlie every night to be tied up. The increased length of the new vessel will also mean that the tail end will protrude from Largs harbour at certain states of the tide - which could be problematic during spells of high winds.

Environmental issues

Cumbrae lies close to two nuclear power stations - Hunterston A (being de-commissioned) and Hunterston B near Fairlie (Magnox and Advanced gas-cooled reactor respectively). The oil-fired Inverkip Power Station (mothballed) lies to the north near Wemyss Bay, dominating the skyline.
   A wind farm lies behind Hunterston B on Busbie Muir, above West Kilbride. It contains 12 100-metre high turbines, which can be spectacularly seen from Cumbrae, especially in early morning and late evening light.
   The waters nearby are also host to the UK's current nuclear deterrent, Vanguard class submarines carrying Trident missiles, from HM Naval Base at Faslane/Coulport, further up the Clyde. The United States Navy, now departed, spent nearly 40 years at the Holy Loch, using the older Polaris Nuclear submarines.
   See British replacement of the Trident system for current debate on this issue.

Current Developments

It is currently being proposed (March 2007) to initiate an environmentally friendly facility at Wine Bay, near the north end of the island. This would at least involve a vegetable garden and composting facilities and it's hoped that this would eventually become self-sufficient and employ local people. Some concern has been raised however about the distance from the town (around 4 miles by road) making it difficult to get to for many, and also the possibility of pollutant emissions from vehicles travelling to the site negating any environmental benefits.
A forestry project is underway on the hillside above Ballochmartin Farm, on either side of the Inner Circle road. Trees are being planted throughout spring 2007.

Notable residents

Duncan Macrae (actor and comedian, Whisky Galore, The Prisoner)

Stephens Orr (society photographer)

David Robertson (naturalist)

The Saxon (a Clyde puffer which provided a shipping service to the island) and which featured in the TV series The Vital Spark, based on Neil Munro's Para Handy stories about the Vital Spark.

Trivia

The island was immortalised in the BBC Radio 4 comedy series, Millport, written by and starring Lynn Ferguson, the voice of Mac in the animated film Chicken Run.

Further Information

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